Today I accompanied Susie back to La Boca to find a tango painting to match a painting of Caminito strip that she bought yesterday. We searched a long, long, long time. So, eventually, she went back to the same artist and he offered to paint a painting for her while we waited and watched. So, we pulled up a chair and he went to work, painting and telling us *again in fantastic English) all about his dancing (he teaches tango dancing all around the world), competing and his art (he also uses body art and paint in his dancing to make art pieces on the dancefloor-pretty cool!). He completed a gorgeous painting and then insisted in showing us a few tango moves. Guillermo Allio-he was adorable.
After watching a few more tango dances over a glass of fresh squeezed OJ and a quick stop for lunch at the hostel, I headed with Susie to San Telmo to catch the Sunday artisan market on Defensa street. We only cruised a little as we wanted to make it to Feria de los Mataderos in the North of the city, where we were told we'd find lots of artists, homemade liquors and yummies and gaucho demostrations. However, only once we arrived in Mataderos, did we learn that this all goes on on Saturday....yesterday. Oops. So, we hopped back on the bus and headed back to San Telmo. All not lost though, since I got to see another area of the city, although nothing too remarkable from what I'd already seen.
Back on Defense street, I walked the whole strip which was closed to traffic for all the artisans to display their wares. Many were flea market/dollar store-type wares, but there were equal numbers of original art, jewellery, crafts and busker. And, this is where we met Lucas-a jeweller, photographer, renaissance man and kindred spirit from Bariloche. He lives, by his own means, to travel and explore. When I asked him if he had a website to display his photography, he replied that he takes photos for himself first and that he's not interested in "getting ahead" as much as creating something he's truly proud of. And taking the time to do it properly. He's incredibly well read, super intelligent and was a total pleasure to listen to. I love talking to people like this, who have made a simple, honest and good life work, at any odds. He's worked really hard for what he has and accomplished so much- makes all the excuses we make for why we can't do things we say we really want seem pretty trivial. I walked away feeling really energized to have met such an inspiring person.
We talked to a few other artisans, about the history of tango and how it came from the brothels to become a national icon of passion and culture, and about their various paintings and crafts. No one was pushing their wares, but were just enjoying the people and the nice day.
By the time I got back to the hostel, after a tasty supper and a bottle of wine, I was feeling much better and more confident about heading out tomorrow (the shared bottle of wine probably didn't hurt). I've heard wild stories about the Retiro bus station in Buenos Aires, so I guess I'll see for myself tomorrow!
Today, there are still lots of super colourful houses (could compete well with NL) and a really tight community. The touristy area of La Boca is Caminito, where are the houses are done up, there's tonnes of street cafes and lots of open-air tango dancers. La Boca has by far been my favourite spot in Buenos Aires. I love the feel of the area (however raw) and even though they definitely cater to the tourists, it still is a really cool place to be. 
