The bus ride to Bariloche was a total treat. Long, yes (20hrs) but I really didn't mind. I got to see the countryside in style, was so well fed and was thoroughly comfortable. I was missing my earplugs for the sleeping bit, but I did manage some sleep. And the views were pretty amazing.
The countryside started out as huge plots of farmland, closer to Buenos Aires. These farms have massive heads of cattle, or horses and a few grain farms. The herds graze on incredible expanses of land (I wonder how efficient large-area grazing is...) and modest houses are few and far between. I also loved the many horses, ground tied like pet dogs, out front of houses right by the road. No way our pampered horses would stand for that.
Around hour 7, I decided that I really like to sanctuary of the bus. I can collect and calm my thoughts (and self-doubt) and relax. I feel kinda protected in the bus. It gives me time to work things out and prepare for what might lie ahead. The more I think about the size of Argentina, the more I'm realizing that it's an enormous country to try to discover in just 2 months. So, I've decided that if this second farmstay doesn't work out, then I will just continue on and start exploring Patagonia and south on my own. Hopefully I will meet some camping/hiking-minded souls...or even better, the farmstay comes through and I meet these souls at the farm in the mountains. That would be sweet.
Somewhere in the night (I did notice I passed through Bahia Blanco) the scenery changed from farmland to low desert with these pom-pom looking shrubs.
The countryside started out as huge plots of farmland, closer to Buenos Aires. These farms have massive heads of cattle, or horses and a few grain farms. The herds graze on incredible expanses of land (I wonder how efficient large-area grazing is...) and modest houses are few and far between. I also loved the many horses, ground tied like pet dogs, out front of houses right by the road. No way our pampered horses would stand for that.
Around hour 7, I decided that I really like to sanctuary of the bus. I can collect and calm my thoughts (and self-doubt) and relax. I feel kinda protected in the bus. It gives me time to work things out and prepare for what might lie ahead. The more I think about the size of Argentina, the more I'm realizing that it's an enormous country to try to discover in just 2 months. So, I've decided that if this second farmstay doesn't work out, then I will just continue on and start exploring Patagonia and south on my own. Hopefully I will meet some camping/hiking-minded souls...or even better, the farmstay comes through and I meet these souls at the farm in the mountains. That would be sweet.
Somewhere in the night (I did notice I passed through Bahia Blanco) the scenery changed from farmland to low desert with these pom-pom looking shrubs.
It's beautiful. Then, a little later, we entered the Lake District- the start of the Patagonia I've been drooling over in the travel books. Mountains, lakes and blue sky. I took a few photos from the bus (yes, complete tourist am I) that I hope may do some justice to what I see.
It looks a lot like BC, although the gaucho herding horses up the ridge off the side of the road gives it away :) It's completely gorgeous.
Now I'm in Bariloche. I scrambled and found a hostel to take me for the night (more than I wanted to pay, but I guess that's what you get for last-minute).
Now I'm in Bariloche. I scrambled and found a hostel to take me for the night (more than I wanted to pay, but I guess that's what you get for last-minute).
I chickened out of solo-camping outside of town (Mom, I know this breaks your heart) even though I've been told how easy it is. Instead, I have a place to drop my pack and explore the town. Bariloche has a definite European feel (lots of German and Swiss settlements) with an alpine flair.
There's even an "Aspen Ski Hotel". The waterfront is beautiful with the Andean mountain range in the background and a nice warm breeze off the water.
The sun in shining and the weather is perfect. And, to top it all off, I've found THE chocolate shop in Bariloche. Apparently, Bariloche is renowned for its chocolate and Lonely Planet assures me that Mamuschka is the best of the best. Note the motorized babuschka dolls over the Mamuschka sign!
And oh man, it's heaven- Kel and Ains, you would think you've found heaven on Earth.
Happiness truly is velvety, melt-in-your-mouth chocolate. I wish I could bring some back for you to experience, but with the hot weather and a loaded pack, you'll have to enjoy vicariously through my photos.
Before: my Mamuschka wares, slightly sun-ripened
After: Yummmmmm (gotta love how half my photos on this post are of chocolate. Mountains and chocolate- now only if there was an ocean.)
Chocolate aside, I have to admit to feeling a little lonely, or alone, right now. I'm a little disappointed at how few outdoorsy people I've met so far and how few backpackers I've seen. I'm hoping that will change now that I'm in national park heaven, but I'd be lying to say I'm not a little discouraged. I somewhat regret staying in Buenos Aires for four days, as I feel like I'm still waiting for the exploring of the places I've been waiting for to start. I hope this is going to change soon and I get into the moutains that I only see in the distance right now. If I can't go to the farm tomorrow, I'm going to head off into Nahuel Huapi National Park (I visited the office today and got some tips for safe solo hikes) myself. Apparently there are free shuttles to the base of Ventisquero Negro (Black Glacier) and the base of Tronador (volcano). I can't wait anymore. I'll ask around the hostel to see who I can recruit, but if all else fails, I'm sure I'll meet people on the trail. Don't cringe - you know I have far to over-active an imagination to get myself into anything sketchy.
PS: I read, enjoy and am encouraged by all of your comments, so keep the messages coming. It's nice to hear how everyone's doing!
PS: I read, enjoy and am encouraged by all of your comments, so keep the messages coming. It's nice to hear how everyone's doing!
