Right from the start, the scenery and view were incredible. I could see Fitz Roy and Torre mountains in plain view and glacier fields in the distance. It´s a clear day, with blue skies and a warm, albeit wild, wind. Just enough to keep the clouds off the tops of the peaks for fantastic viewing.
My destination for today is Camp Poincenot. The trail (well stamped out from many, many previous hikers) has a gentle, low grade incline the whole way that follows the mighty Rio Blanco alternating from right at the water´s edge to sections through these cool twisty forests.
I met up with various people who chatted with me, so I was never very far from others but happy to walk alone. There are lookouts posted on the map, (although not on the trails) but most places on the trail make for an outrageous view. Every time I pulled out my camera, I knew there would be a better view just up ahead, but I couldn´t resist.
I eventually made it to the toilet area, I mean, camp area. My guide book had warned against a mouse infestation, but said nothing of how narsty (a giant leap below nasty) people had made the area. I´ll leave it to your imagination, but it was pretty rank. Luckily, the scenery made up for it. I dropped my pack and since it was only 2pm, I headed across the river to check out a close-up the Piedras Blancas glacier that I had been seeing the whole walk in. Since it isn´t a designated trail and a big rock slide had happened last year, rock cairns lead the way along the river bed.
Eventually, it opens up into the really eerie sand bed and further in starts the carnage of humungeous boulders that have fallen down from the glacier over time.
I scrambled up the boulders until I reached this perfect flat rock. From here on in, I was completely overcome. I was sitting at the base of this gigantic field of ancient ice, watching the never-ending torrent of water rush away, with pieces of the glacier falling into the water. It was a really, really moving experience. I just sat on the rock, with the sun and spray on my face and tried to take it all in. I have never had an experience (or reaction) like that before.
By the time I made it back to camp, my knee was getting sore, so I opted for an early supper and bed to get ready for a pre-dawn summit to another glacier at Laguna de los Tres (Lake of Three). As a sidebar, I have to praise my new little Trangia alcohol stove. This little thing it awesome. I did have a slightly embarassing moment when I tried to adjust the simmer ring and managed to spill flaming alcohol, oops. Luckily it was all contained and only my pride slightly singed. (Denise or Big Mike- how to adjust the ring without it interfering with the windshield?)
Another sidebar: It´s really sad to look around this beautiful place and see how trashed people have made it. It´s really, really gross. There is a latrine (albeit, not a pleasant experience) but that seems to go unnoticed. I also see people washing dishes in the water and spitting toothpaste and God-knows whatelse wherever. The water here is crystal clean, for now, and it´s really tragic to think that it won´t be long before we´ve contaminated it for good. So sad. And unnecessary.
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